Gleaming towers of pots and pans, garlanded images of gods, and smooth, highly polished earthen floors glimpsed their way through low doorways, attesting to the neat, ordered lives that persisted within.
The children led me directly to Johnny Cigar’s house, not far from the seashore boundary.
Johnny, who was the head man in the slum, was born on the streets of the city. His father, a Navy man on temporary assignment in Bombay, had abandoned Johnny’s mother when he learned that she was pregnant. He left the city on a warship, bound for the Port of Aden. She never heard from him again.
Cast out by her family, Johnny’s mother had moved into a pavement-dweller settlement made from sheets of plastic strung across a section of footpath near Crawford Market.
Johnny was born in the day-long shout, shove and shuffle heard from one of Asia’s largest covered markets. His ears rang from early morning until last light with shrill or braying cadenzas of street sellers and stallholders.
He’d lived the whole of his life in pavement communities and crowded slums, and only ever seemed truly at home in the surge and swirl of the crowd. The few times I’d seen him alone, walking the strip of sea coast beside the slum, or sitting in a lull of afternoon outside a chai shop, he’d seemed diminished by the solitude; withdrawn into a smaller sense of himself. But in any crowd, he was a jewel of his people.
‘Oh, my
‘It’s a long story. How you doin’, Johnny?’
‘Oh, shit, man. You got a solid pasting!’
I frowned at him. Johnny knew that frown. We’d lived together as neighbours in the slum for eighteen months, and had continued as good friends for years.
‘Okay, okay,
I sat on an empty grain drum, watching Johnny give instructions to a team of young men, who were making final preparations for the coming rain.
When the previous head man of the slum retired to his village, he nominated Johnny Cigar as his successor. A few voices grumbled that Johnny wasn’t the ideal choice, but the love and admiration everyone felt for the retiring head man silenced their objections.
It was an honorary position, with no authority beyond that contained within the character of the man who held it. After almost two years in the job, Johnny had proven himself to be wise in the settlement of disputes, and strong enough to inspire that ancient instinct: the urge to follow a positive direction.
For his part, Johnny enjoyed the leadership role, and when all else failed to resolve a dispute, he went with his heart, declared a holiday in the slum, and threw a party.
His system worked, and was popular. There were people who’d moved into that slum because there was a pretty good party every other week to settle a dispute peacefully. People brought disputes from other slums, to have them resolved by Johnny. And little by little, the boy born on the pavement was Solomon to his people.
‘Arun! Get down to the mangrove line with Deepak!’ he shouted. ‘That flood wall collapsed yesterday. Get it up again, fast! Raju! Take the boys to Bapu’s house. The old ladies in his lane have no plastic on the roof. Those fucking cats pulled it off. Bapu has the sheets. Help him get them up. The rest of you, keep clearing those drains!
The tea arrived, and Johnny sat down to drink with me.
‘Cats,’ he sighed. ‘Can you explain to me why there are cat people in this world?’
‘In a word? Mice. Cats are handy little devils.’
‘I guess so. You just missed Lisa and Vikram. Has she seen your face like this?’
‘No.’
‘Hell, man, she’s gonna have a fit, yaar. You look like somebody ran over you.’
‘Thanks, Johnny.’
‘Don’t mention,’ he replied. ‘Hey, that Vikram, he doesn’t look too good either. He’s not sleeping well, I think.’
I knew why Vikram didn’t look too good. I didn’t want to talk about it.
‘When do you think?’ I asked, looking at the black, heaving clouds.
The smell of rain that should-but-wouldn’t fall was everywhere in my eyes, in my sweat, in my hair: first rain, the perfect child of monsoon.
‘I thought it would be today,’ he replied, sipping at his tea. ‘I was sure.’
I sipped my tea. It was very sweet, laced with ginger to defeat the heat that pressed down on every heart in the last days of the summer. The ginger soothed the cuts on the inside of my mouth, and I sighed with pleasure.
‘Good chai, Johnny,’ I said.
‘Good chai,’ he replied.
‘Indian penicillin,’ I said.
‘There is . . . there is no penicillin in this chai, baba,’ Johnny said.
‘No, I mean –’
‘We never put penicillin in our tea,’ he declared.
He seemed offended.
‘No, no,’ I reassured him, knowing that I was heading down a dead-end street. ‘It’s a reference to an old joke, a joke about chicken soup, a joke about chicken soup being called Jewish penicillin.’
Johnny sniffed at his tea charily.
‘You . . . you smell