Descriptionary

cossacks loose, voluminous trousers having leg bot­toms drawn closed by ribbons, popular from about 1817 to the 1830s.

cravat a light, linen scarf tied around the neck in a knot or bow.

crinoline a dome-, funnel-, or pyramidal-shaped understructure made of whalebone or spring hoops used to distend or widen skirts to as large as 18 feet in circumference. The skirt itself was often hitched up to show a scarlet petticoat beneath.

cummerbund a wide silk sash worn around the waist with a dress suit, popular with men from the 1890s on.

deerstalker cap a Harris tweed cap with ear flaps.

Dolly Varden dress a variation of the polonaise, having a short overskirt bunched up severely in the back.

duster a short summer overcoat.

follow-me-lads popular name for ribbon streamers trailing behind a woman's hat.

frock coat a knee-length, military-style overcoat.

gaiters leather or cloth leggings extended from the knee to the instep. Ankle-length gaiters were known as spats.

Garibaldi shirt a black-buttoned, red merino shirt worn with a belt and a black or other colored skirt.

gibus a top hat capable of being squashed flat and carried under the arm.

greatcoat a knee- or ankle-length overcoat, button­ing to just below the waist.

Grecian bend a fad in which a stooped posture was considered fashionable among women; a bustle was worn high on the back of the skirt to enhance this effect, popular from 1815 to 1819 and revived in 1868.

Hessians boots rising to just below the knee and decorated with tassels, worn most frequently with pantaloons.

highlows ankle boots buckled or strapped in front.

indispensable a circular or lozenge-shaped handbag favored by women. Also known as a reticule.

inexpressibles prudish name given to trousers to avoid being vulgar in speech. Also known as unmen­tionables and unwhisperables.

Inverness a greatcoat having a deep cape, popular from 1859 on.

jacket bodice a full-sleeved, form-fitting bodice spreading out over the waist.

knickerbockers a loose form of breeches, but lon­ger and wider; they buckled at the knee and were worn from the 1870s on for shooting, boating, golf, and riding.

mackintosh an overcoat made of rubber bonded over cloth, a source of complaints due to its unpleas­ant odor.

mantle a long cloak, frequently having a cape.

mob cap a bonnetlike cap with a puffed-out crown and frill and ribbon trim, worn most frequently in the kitchen by women.

muff a handwarmer made of fur or feathers.

paletot a short overcoat for men. Also, a large jacket that spread over a crinoline dress.

pantaloons close-fitting pants, held to the feet by straps. Also known as tights.

pelerine a cape.

pelisse a long, short-waisted, ankle-length overcoat with a broad, turned-down collar.

piccadilly a man's stand-up collar.

poke bonnet a bonnet with a forward projecting brim.

polonaise a very popular dress having an overskirt attached at the bodice and draped up at the rump. It was sometimes left unbuttoned from the waist down. Also known as a princess polonaise.

porkpie hat a lady's hat having a low, flat crown, resembling a pie.

princess dress a dress having a bodice extending down to serve as an overskirt. Also known as an Isa- beau dress.

pumps dress shoes open at the instep and just cov­ering the toes, tied with ribbons.

rationals bicycle bloomers, popular in the 1890s.

reticule a small, drawstringed handbag made of silk, satin, or velvet.

riding habit skirt a very long skirt worn when rid­ing to hide the legs from view.

sailor suit a popular boy's suit, consisting of a sail­or's hat, knickerbockers, and a blouse with a square flat collar and V neck, worn from the 1860s on.

shawl a garment draped over the shoulders to warm the upper body.

skeleton suit a young boy's suit consisting of highwaisted trousers buttoned up over a fitted jacket having a broad, white collar, from 1800 to 1834.

spats see gaiters.

spencer a short jacket pulled in at the waist, worn by women.

surtout a long overcoat.

tam-o'-shanter a close-fitting, Scottish cap having a pompon, feather, or tassel sticking up from the center.

tea gown a loose dress without a corset, frequently trimmed with flounces and ruffled sleeves.

three storeys and a basement a woman's high- crowned hat.

tippet a cape.

top coat a greatcoat or overcoat.

top hat a narrow-brimmed hat with a tall crown, most frequently shiny black in color. Also called a chimney pot hat.

trilby a soft felt hat having a dent along the crown from front to back.

ugly on a bonnet, an extra brim tied over the exist­ing brim for extra shading against the sun.