"Yester-year"; ten centuries of toilette from the French of A. Robida

Fashions called 'à la Bastille' —Fashions of the Revolution — Notre - Dame de Thermidor — 'Incroyables' and 'Merveilleuses' —Antiquity in Paris—' Athenian ' and ' Roman ' women—A pound of clothes — Transparent tunics—Tights, bracelets, and buskins —• The reticule or ridicule— ' Tlie Victims ' Ball—Blonde wigs and dog's ears—' A la Titus'—'Robes-fourreau'^—Little caps and Hats— Shakos—Turbans.

The hurricane which was destined to sweep as a cyclone over our ancient Europe for twenty-five years, ah-eady blew upon Paris, whence it took its origin, shaking and demolishing all before it. A monarchy that had lasted for centuries was about to fall amidst the débris of the old order, like a Bastille or a house of cards.

During this time, while the slaughterers were carrying heads about on pikes, while the new masters of France at the Assembly or the Commune were deciding the fate of millions of men about to be set in battle array, while already, in that ominous dawn of a new age, the new queen, the Guillotine, had risen in her might and spread her blood-red arms over her people, imperturbable Fashion was busy with fresh contrivances, altering the cut of skirts, arrano^ing bodices, twisting ribbons into previously-unknown knots, inventing idyllic toilettes of exquisite novelty, for must not a new nation have new costumes ?

The change that set in during the last peaceful years of Louis Seize gathered speed and character. Fashion had struck into a new path, and little by little all the characteristics of the former time, the old régime, as it is called, disappeared.

In the famous print by Debucourt, La Promenade picllique, which gives us a vivid vision of a crowd of fine folk in the early days of the Revolution, what remains of the costumes and modes of the century among that charming assemblaoe of belles and beaux, who seem wholly unconcerned with the great drama ? Powder, a few shovel-hats on the heads of a few old men, who lag behind the time, and that is all.

The aspect of women was strangely altered. English fashions prevailed at first, that is to say waistcoats and riding-habits were worn, but afterwards gowns became more simple, both in make and material.

Times were hard, good-bye to rich tissues, to silks and satins, to the costly gear of former days. Cotton, Indian print, and lawn replaced silk, and dressmakers adhered to straight lines with little ornament and few accessories. Lawn bodices were made chemise-wise, leaving the arm bare from the elbow, skirts were plain, almost flat, and had long saslies. This extreme simplicity was relieved by the national colours, trophies, and revolutionary symbols, imprinted on the stuff, or a scanty frill was added to the edge of the skirt.

Large muslin fichus were still worn, and on great occasions the costume was completed by a bunch of tricolored flowers placed on the left side above the heart, and by patriotic trinkets, neck-lockets, waist-buckles, in steel or copper, cockades, earrings, buttons ' à la Bastille,' ' au Tiers-État,' ' à la Constitution,' &c. For a while everything was ' à la Bastille,' even the hats.

The large cone-shaped hats with wide brims, and over-laden with ribbons, after having tried to hold out for some time, disappeared ; then came a spell of caps only—caps with great puffed and be-ribboned crowns, caps like the head-tires of the women of Caux in Normandy, especially the ' peasant ' and ' milkmaid ' caps and the graceful coif with wide lace borders.

MERVEFLLEUSE EX TUXiaUE A LA GRECaCE.

which we now call the ' Charlotte Corday cap,' mounting a large tricolour cockade.

Hardly any white powder was used—so much black was about to be consumed— the hair was worn as it grew, with a little added, but white wigs were just 'coming in.'

Soon, however, the tempest broke out in earnest. The Terror had begun. Could there be any further question of luxury, frivolity and fashion ? The ranks of fine ladies were thinned, they were in the Abbaye, in La Force, in a hundred prisons, or at Coblentz ;—they were in hiding, or they were dead.