I met her in a café in Kolonaki Square, a place where all Athenians who feel they are worth seeing eventually show up to be seen, where the women have pouty ultraviolet mouths, the uniform is leather, the chains are gold, the futuristic object parked at the corner is a De Tomaso Pantera, the command car of idle fantasy, and the slender bearded men shift in their chairs, behind dark glasses, wearing sweaters draped over their shoulders.Ann, approaching, tilted her head to catch my eye. The warm smile held an edge of reproof."Where have you been? Said she accusingly.”"Making the rounds. The Gulf and points north. Many wonders.”"You might have mentioned it, you beast.”"It was chaos, honest. I had barely enough time to arrange visas.”"You wanted us to worry," she said."Ridiculous.”"You wanted us to think you'd simply run off, run away, given it all up, given us up.”"Did you call my secretary?”"Charlie did.”"Then you knew.”"Eventually," she said, using the word to indicate I was taking this more seriously than I was supposed to.The main cafes and their auxiliaries were crowded into a noisy slanted space that included a small park, traffic melees, three or four kiosks layered and seamed in bright magazines. The first mild day after a grim spell. The canopies were furled to let in light, the tables extended across the sidewalks. Celebration and release. An old woman turned the crank of a barrel organ while her husband moved among the tables collecting coins. People had the happy air of survivors eager to talk of their common ordeal. Waiters moved sideways. The lottery man stood at the edge of things, bearing his notched stave."How nice to be back," I said. "I want to do nothing, go nowhere. A sunny winter. That's what I want. Orange trees on every street. Women in self-important boots.”"Wait until the wind starts blowing. You're high enough on Lycabettus to get the full effect.”"I want to pass time. Sit in places like this, talk about nothing.”"I have to confess I find it hard to pass time in the heart of the city. I need a seascape or vista.”"I could easily fall into this," I said. "Laze my way through life. Coffee here, wine there. You can channel significant things into the commonplace. Or you can avoid them completely.”"I wouldn't have thought you were a café wastrel.”"We all are. It's just a matter of realizing it. I'm preparing myself for the bleak years ahead. A lonely sad expatriate. Wifeless. Stumbling through seedy cafés. A friend of mine imagined a similar fate only yesterday. It involved dry cleaning. What does it all mean?”"I don't know. Self-depreciation is a language I don't think I understand. It's so often a form of ego, isn't it, a form of aggression, a wanting to be noticed even for one's flaws. I don't know these modern languages. In fact I may be the person in your fantasy. The sad expatriate. The real one.”Men stood before the kiosks reading displays of the day's papers. The waiter opened a half bottle of wine. I smiled at Ann, turning my head, making it a look of measurement, evaluation. A look of the left eye."Is it possible, love affairs as functions of geography?”She looked back, showing amused interest."Possibly you want to deepen the experience of a place. A place you know you will have to leave some day, most likely not by choice.”"That hadn't occurred to me," she said. "Adulterous sex as a function of geography. Do I have such obscure motives?”"The loss of Kenya, the loss of Cyprus. You want to keep something for yourself that isn't a tribal mask or figurine. A private Cyprus, a meditation. How does a woman make these places hers as well as her husband's when after all it's his job that determines where they go, and when they go, and when they leave.”"A function of memory. I might buy that. Some women have a way of planning their memories.”"Isn't there a connection? Geography and memory?”"You're drifting away from me.”"You're a plain girl from a mill town. I know.”"Of course there is sheer sense pleasure. Are we allowed to take that into account? Excitement.”"That's another subject. I don't find that subject agreeable.”"You want to maintain a certain decorum.”"A certain level. I don't want to succumb to jealousy. A man has jealous thoughts about a woman he's never loved, a woman who's simply a friend. He doesn't want to hear about sense pleasures. He's interested in her affairs as themes, motifs in her life.”"Just the conversation," she said, "for Kolonaki Square.”"You don't have to hate a man to enjoy his bad luck. True? And you don't have to love a woman to feel possessive toward her or resentful of her affairs.”"I don't know how serious you are. Are you serious?”"Of course I'm serious.”"Well how nice. I think.”"I hadn't thought of it as nice or not nice.”"Or do I make a mistake in regarding myself as specially favored?”"Probably you make a mistake. I have a history of pathological envy.”She laughed."You have too much time to think, James. You're alone too much, aren't you?”"And you?”"Wherever we've been I've managed to find things to do. Not much but enough. English lessons in the beginning. Of course I was a full-time mother and housekeeper for quite a few years. I do occasional work for the British Council here. Translation mainly. It does make a difference. I need to feel that I'm building little blocks of time. That's why the café life will never claim me.”"Have you ever thought being alone might be in some way a fullness, a completion?”"No, absolutely.”"I believe deeply in the idea of two. Two people. It's the only sanity. The only richness.”"Of course.”"Yesterday I was in Amman, sitting in the Roman theater, and I had an odd sensation. I don't know if I can describe it but I think I perceived solitude as a collection of things rather than an absence of things. Being alone has components. I felt I was being put together out of these nameless things. This was new to me. Of course I'd been traveling, running around. This was the first quiet moment I'd had. Maybe that's all it was. But I felt I was being put together. I was alone and absolutely myself.”"Terrifying. Not that I know what you're talking about," she said.A young man fell into the chair next to Ann's, crossed his legs, folded his arms and eased into the slouch of a ten-hour wait, the slouch of cancelled flights, half-sleep in vast rooms.This was Peter, her son, a pointed face, curly reddish hair, wireframe specs. He wore a checked sport coat that was a couple of sizes too large, a country gentleman's outfit with pockets for shotgun shells or corn cobs to toss to the pigs. He wanted to see a menu."In modern travel there are no artists-only critics," he told me."You're tired," Ann said."On the one hand there's nothing new to