The Golden State

I remember as we pass the first set of rim rocks that this is my favorite route out of town, but one you would only really take to get to Antelope Meadows since it doesn’t lead anywhere else I would want to go. I wish I hadn’t waited so long to drive out here when the trip could have eaten up just one of the blocks of time spent slapping my heels on the asphalt heading out of Deakins Park and sweating under the straps of the Ergo.

I consider what Antelope Meadows will have on offer. The wine will be challenging but probably $5 or less. Beer will be Coors or Bud and Sierra Nevada if I’m lucky. I will have to make one count because I’m driving. The thought flits through my mind that I am thinking like a person with a Problem, a thought I dismiss, preferring not to add the challenge of achieving sobriety to the resolution of our immigration difficulties, the finessing of my job abandonment, the disposition of my mother’s household effects, the raising of Honey. Especially not with a lingering hangover and a black eye. I kindle a little flame of pleasure thinking about the food, such as it is, which like the Golden Spike is possessing a kind of awful majesty. I am fully intending to get the $21.99 prime rib dinner and damn the expense, and Honey can share this with me and eat the damp wrinkled foil-wrapped potato and reheated broccoli florets and crinkle-cut carrots that will accompany the slab of meat. The meat will have a lot of fat in it and they bring you a little dish of very hot horseradish if you ask for it and it makes my mouth water to think of it.

The road that passes through the rim rocks is on an incline so slight you don’t feel it until you approach the turnout for Antelope Meadows and see a gentle valley spread out before you, the scattered houses of an ill-starred housing development that every year seems to recede further from the possibility of one day becoming a thriving community. There is, of all things, an overgrown airstrip in the vast basin, I have no idea why, maybe for the cattle gentry who were supposed to settle here and never did. Around all the structures plants and native grasses assert themselves, California fescue and Idaho fescue and a lot of other things I couldn’t name, soft and spiky and glinting silvery green in the late-afternoon light, covering the homes of mice and marmots whose holes and mounds are in evidence every few yards. Here and there Indian paintbrush glows red amid the green. In the spring Paiute is a riot of wildflowers, but now it’s more subdued.

“Isn’t it beautiful,” I say to Alice, because it really is.

“It reminds me of where I was born,” she says. “Our mountains are more impressive but your light is more interesting.” Like the Orientalists of yore I have a bad habit of categorizing, taxonomizing that I am trying to break myself of, to not say things like “That’s so Turkish,” etc., like someone after their first summer abroad. But now I feel a rare flash of possibly legitimate familiarity: women who have returned to the stony west for obscure personal reasons.

We make the turn onto the long drive for the Antelope Meadows lodge, which is a wooden A-frame surrounded by some ratty log buildings. I feel a little thrill to see that there are cars in the parking lot. I look at Alice.

“I’ll drop you off in front and park” and she says “I can walk across the darn parking lot” tartly. “I ran around after your baby all morning, didn’t I?” “Right,” I say, and park next to a behemoth pickup. Honey, who had fallen into her traveler’s meditative state, immediately starts clamoring to be released from her car seat. Alice struggles with the button of her seat belt but I don’t help her. I get out and get Honey out. I heft her up onto my shoulders and she laughs and shrieks and we monitor Alice as she steps effortfully out of the car. When she’s on her feet she straightens her skirt and adjusts her carriage, her shoulders just brushed by her dense and immaculate blunt-cut hair.

She sees me staring at her and says, “What,” sourly.

“Your hair is so beautiful,” I say to her without thinking.

“Well, thank you,” she says. “It was always my pride and joy,” she says, and begins walking slowly around the car.

As we approach the door to the lodge I glance at the assortment of bumper stickers in the parking lot. “Save a tree. Wipe your ass with a spotted owl,” says one. “Muzzle Pelosi,” says another, with a photo of the U.S. congresswoman in a Hannibal Lecter mask. They both have the State of Jefferson sticker with the flag with its stupid two crosses denoting being “double-crossed” by the Government according to the last Chronicle article I read. Whatever generosity of spirit the golden light and fragrant air have stirred in my breast snuffs out and I feel myself droop, looking ahead to a meal with a grumpy old woman in a room full of hostile good ole boys.