Mr. Clarinet

TO MOST HAITIANS, Saut d'Eau is a place where the waters have miraculous healing properties. The story goes that on July 16, 1884, the Virgin Mary appeared before a woman who was standing in the stream, washing her clothes. The vision then transmogrified into a white dove that flew off into the waterfall, forever imbuing the cascade with the powers of the Holy Spirit. Since then Saut d'Eau has attracted thousands of visitors every year, pilgrims who came to stand under the blessed waters and pray out loud for cures to illnesses, relief from debts, good crops, a new car, and quick solutions to U.S. visa problems. The anniversary of the Virgin's appearance is also celebrated with a famous festival around the waterfall, which lasts all day and all night.

When he first set eyes on the place, Max almost fell for the legend himself. The last thing he expected to find after hours of driving through the arid wilderness was a small piece of tropical paradise, but that was exactly what it was—a proverbial oasis, a mirage made real, or a sanctuary—a reminder of the way the island had once been, and all it had lost.

To reach the waterfall, Max and Chantale had to walk along the banks of a wide stream that cut through a forest of densely packed trees, overflowing foliage, thick, dangling vines, and riots of sweet-scented, brightly colored flowers. They weren't alone. As they'd drawn closer to their destination, more and more people had joined them on the road—most on foot, but some riding donkeys and tired-looking horses—all of them pilgrims heading for a cure. Once they'd reached the stream, they'd waded into the water and walked solemnly and humbly toward the hundred-foot-tall cascade. Despite the great roar of the crashing torrent up ahead, there was a deep quiet within the forest, as if the essence of silence itself was locked into the soil and the bountiful vegetation. The people seemed to sense this, because none of them spoke, nor made much noise in the water.

Max saw that some of the trees along the way were studded with candles and covered with photographs of people, Christian saints, cars, houses, postcards—most of them of Miami and New York—as well as pictures cut or torn out of magazines and newspapers. These trees, with their enormous thick trunks and thin, spindly branches, some heavy with cucumber-shaped fruit, Chantale explained, were called mapou in Haiti. They were sacred in voodoo, trees whose roots were said to be a conduit for the loas—the gods—from this world into the next, and whose presence was meant to signify the nearness of flowing water. The tree was inextricably linked to Haiti's history: the slave rebellion that brought Haiti independence was rumored to have started under a mapou tree in the town of Gonaives, when a stolen white child was sacrificed to the devil in exchange for his help in defeating the French armies. Haitian independence was declared under the very same tree in 1804.

When they reached the waterfalls, they stopped at the bank, near a mapou. Max put down the hamper he'd been carrying. Chantale opened it and took out a small drawstring bag of purple velvet. She removed four metal candleholders, which she stuck into the tree in four equidistant points, like those of the compass. Moving counterclockwise, she spiked four candles into the holders—one white, one gray, one red, and one lavender. Then she took a picture out of her wallet, kissed it with her eyes closed, and tacked it in the middle of the candle arrangement. She sprinkled water on her hands from a small, clear, glass bottle, and then rubbed what smelled like sandalwood lotion into her hands and arms. Whispering quietly, she lit each candle with a match and then, tilting her head back, she looked up into the sky and stretched out her arms, palms up.

Max moved a little away, out of her immediate range, to give her some privacy. He looked at the waterfall. Off to the left there was a break in the trees, where the sun streamed through and made a gigantic rainbow in the mist rolling off the torrent. People were standing on the rocks directly under the falls, water pounding on their bodies. Others stood apart, off to the sides, where the cascade was not as forceful. They chanted and held their hands up to the sky, in much the same way Chantale was doing; some shook instruments like maracas, others clapped their hands and danced. They were all naked. Once they got close to the rocks near the falls, they shed their clothes in the stream and let them float off with the current. In the stream itself, the pilgrims stood waist-deep, washing themselves with herbs and bars of yellow soap they bought from boys selling baskets of the things on the banks. Max noticed several of them were in trances, standing stock-still in crucifixion poses; others were possessed, bodies shaking, heads snapping back and forth, eyes wide and rolling, tongues darting in and out of perpetually moving mouths.