Far and Away: Reporting from the Brink of Change

Qudratullah (chef), 281–82

Radio Liberty, 61

Rados, Antonia, 281

Rafferty, Emily K., 192, 196

Rahim, Said Makhtoum, 271, 272

Rakhine (Arakan) State, 459, 461–63

author’s visit to, 464–68

Ramabulana, Freddy, 168–69

Reagan administration, 325, 345

Reed, Lou, 361

refugee camps, 25, 233–35, 307, 461–62, 473, 481

refugees, 39–42

and cultural exclusion, 39

and immigration, 25

Renaissance, 185, 380

Resmini, Ni Md, 401

Rezayee, Shaima, 284

Rezun-Zvezdochetova, Larisa, 13, 60, 65, 66–68

Richards, Colin, 163

Rilke, Rainer Maria, 44

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 407–28

aesthetics of sensuality in, 423

beach culture in, 423

Carioca culture of, 409, 414–15, 417, 422

Carnival in, 408–9

Christ the Redeemer statue in, 417

deindustrialization, 409

favelas in, 408–15, 417–22, 423, 425–28

Museu de Favela in, 414

nightlife in, 423–24

Olympic Games in, 407, 410, 416–17, 418, 419, 422, 426, 427

pacification program in, 415–17, 420, 421, 426–28

police and crime in, 409–13, 418, 421, 422, 425–27

rejuvenation of historic sites in, 422–25

samba in, 408, 409, 420, 424

skin color in, 419–20

social services in, 412–14, 418–19, 422, 426, 427

sports competitions in, 413

street library in, 422

Theatro Municipal in, 422–23

update, 425–28

UPP (Unidade de Polícia Pacificadora) in, 410–14, 418, 420–21, 422, 425–26

World Cup in, 407, 410, 418, 422

“Ríu Ríu Chíu” (song), 6

Rockefeller, David, 329

Rodchenko, Aleksandr, 50

Line, 52

Roden Crater, Arizona, 287

Rodrigues da Silva, Robson, 413–14

Roiter, Andrei, 15

Rolpai, Dorje, 381

Romania, 435–42

Brâncuşi’s Endless Column in, 287

depression in, 435, 436–39

Dorohoi (home of author’s ancestors), 436, 438–39

gay rights in, 437, 440–42

language of, 441

Roma (Gypsy) settlements in, 436, 440, 441

social liberalization in, 441

travel in, 6–7, 25

Romanian National Radio, 437

Ronald Feldman Fine Arts, New York, 50

Roque, Atila, 427

Rossouw, David, 169–70

Ross Sea, 385, 388–89, 392

royal albatross, 394

Rohingya people, 458–62, 464, 468, 480–81

Rus, Andrei, 441–42

Ruskin, John, 24

Russ, Rodney, 386, 388–90, 392–94

Russia, 29, 71–102

from 1917 to 1991, see USSR

businessmen in, 83–86

and capitalism, 74, 83–84, 95–96

censorship in, 57–58, 97, 98, 175

changing politics in, 89–96, 102

constitution of, 92, 94, 97

corruption in, 100–101

despair in, 247

drug use in, 73

economy of, 101–2

emerging social classes in, 71–72, 90

expats in US, 177–79

gay life in, 35, 58, 71, 80–82, 98–99

ideology in, 82, 91, 93

Imperial Porcelain from, 30

interpretation of democracy in, 91–93

organized crime in, 71, 73–74, 77, 79, 81, 86–89, 100

magazines in, 77–78, 98

Orthodox Church in, 72, 82–83, 99–100

parties and nightclubs in, 73–74, 98

popular music in, 78–80, 97, 98

rave scene in, 72–74

sanctions against, 101

social scene in, 72–77

spirit vs. bureaucracy in, 61

tusovkis (social circles) in, 72–73, 75, 77, 87

update, 97–102

Russian Patriotic movement, 94

Russian Revolution (1917), 62

Russia Without Us (zine), 98

Rutskoi, Alexander, 178

Ruzicka, Marla, 27, 281, 285

Rwanda, 305–20

Avega (widows’ organization) in, 308, 310

as Belgian colony, 305–6

genocide in, 305–7

HIV/AIDS in, 307, 308, 310–12, 313, 315

independence (1962), 306

internal politics in, 306

les enfants de mauvais souvenir in, 307–19

post-genocide years in, 310

propaganda in, 37

Radio Mille Collines in, 306

update, 319–20

women raped in, 305, 306–19

Saffron Revolution (2007), Myanmar, 444, 447, 449, 452, 462, 472

St John, Ronald Bruce, 348

Sakharov, Andrei, 93

Sakharov Center Moscow, Forbidden Art exhibit, 57

Salakhova, Aydan, 85

Samim, Farouq, 38–39, 282, 283–84

Samuels, Sammy, 447, 467

Sandi (Balinese man), 402–3

San Pe, Robert, 457

San San Oo, 467

Santia (Balinese man), 401–2, 404

Santyar, Achmed Shekib, “Epitaph,” 275

São Paulo, Brazil, 409, 410, 420

Sarandon, Susan, 361

Saudi Arabia:

assassination plot in, 341, 348

capital punishment for gays in, 35

Sbeta, Abdulmonem M., 344

Scher, Lucy, 43, 489

Scher, Oliver, 43, 489

Schönfeldt, Joachim, 146

Schröder, Gerhard, 348

Schwarcz, Lilia Moritz, 409

Scott, Robert Falcon, 393

Scott Island, 392

scuba diving, 484–92

sea level, rising, 303, 396

seasonal affective disorder (SAD), 250

Sebidi, Helen, 159

Seck, Stephen, 153

Sediqi, Ismail, 273

Sekete, Paul, 174

Selepe, Sydney, 152, 153

Senegal, 261–68

immigrants to US, 268

Lebou beliefs and culture in, 268

mental health services in, 267–68

n’deup ritual in, 262–67, 268

Senoussi, Abdallah, 326

September 11 terrorist attacks, 38, 269, 339, 347, 453

Seuss, Dr. (pseud. Theodore Geisel), 301

sexual identity, 33–36

Shackleton, Sir Ernest, 385–86, 388

Shakespeare, William, 385, 490

Henry VIII, 37

Shakila, Zamzama, 276–77

Shalgham, Abdurrahman, 335, 345, 352

Shanghai, food in, 162–64, 360

Shaoxing, China, food in, 364–65

Shembe Church, South Africa, 175

Shenzong, emperor of China, 186, 200

Shia Yan, 191, 209–10

Shih, J. J., 207

Shih Shou-chien, 182

shoebill (elusive bird), 223

Shwe Mann, 455, 457, 458

Sichuan opera, 367

Sichuan province, food in, 365–67

sign language, 397–405

Sihlali, Durant, 145, 154–55, 159

Silence Number Nine (TV), 75